Globalize Korean Cuisine Not Korean Food Exports
From ships to chips, Korea is an export Olympian, but the hottest product may be local grub. In a marketing drive, Seoul reportedly aims to massively expand overseas Korean restaurants and food exports. Tactics include approving standardized Korean restaurants overseas, opening Korean culinary schools abroad and offering loans for restaurateurs to establish overseas.
Problem: Absent increased demand (popularity) increasing supply (the above) is pointless.
And is exporting Korean foodstuffs viable? As local consumers know, agriculture here is disastrous, food prices way north of international norms (if exported, logistics expenses would further increase costs.) Markets exist for specialized produce (e.g. ginseng) but why would an overseas chef buy Korean garlic for his kimchi rather than local produce? (Want it ready-made? Buy Chinese: Korea suffered a kimchi deficit of US$77 million between 2004-2007.) Moreover, “state-approved’ restaurants are pointless: Consumers rely on media, not governments, for recommendations.
Given this, a smarter strategy may be to publicize the delights of Korean cuisine rather than promote produce exports.
Research must be the start point. What Korean foods do overseas diners enjoy? What don’t they enjoy? Only then can a campaign begin.
Food/lifestyle reporters can be invited on Korean culinary tours, and sent ingredients and recipes. Key influencers - cookbook writers and celebrity chefs can be approached to endorse Korean recipes on shows and in print. Picture Anthony Bourdain consuming raw octopus, Jamie Oliver promoting doenjang for school lunches or Nigella Lawson’s fine bosom dangling over a pajeon.
Ultimately, Korea must birth its own star chef and/or cookbook writer. Not some boring old fart waffling reverentially about traditional cuisine; not some gag-show buffoon; but someone who knows food, has character and can present compellingly. Due to language, he/she may be Korean-American. The show needs international airtime. Koreans have sold film and soap opera globally, so the talent is here to sell to Discovery or National Geographic.
What are the brand values and niche products of Korean cuisine?
Not healthiness. Today’s dishes are so overloaded with spice, salt and flavor enhancer, Koreans suffer some of the world’s highest stomach and intestinal cancer rates. While Korean cuisine does not spawn the obesity of American diets, emphasizing alleged healthy properties is disingenuous.
Let’s kill another shibboleth: Kimchi should not be the flagship. Though iconic, it is neither recipe, dish nor standalone product: It is a condiment. India is famed for curries - not chutneys; Germany for sausages - not sauerkraut. Moreover, kimchi is an acquired taste and smells powerfully, making it unacceptable in many foreign refrigerators, kitchens and restaurants.
Korean cuisine’s differentiated merits must be branded: Strong flavors, idiosyncratic seasonings, multiple side dishes, bright colors, convivial and informal dining manners. These are pluses, as Japan already occupies the formal “high-end” Asian food niche. Korean “comfort food” perfectly fits the mid-end market.
Italian, Chinese and Japanese cuisines were popularized via a limited range of dishes. Absent research for Korean, I suggest sutbul. Communal tabletop cooking is an experience; fondue and hotpot prove it is marketable. Moreover, everyone loves barbeque: It is the Stone Age basis of cooking. It offers cross-sell opportunities (stews, pindaetteok, etc, along with mains) and fusion possibilities (cheese and doenjang; yogurt-thickened stews, etc). This is desirable, as cuisines that globalize mutate: chopsuey is alien to Chinese tables; spaghetti & meatballs to Italian. Once mass market popularity is won, diners seek the original.
Korean cuisine’s idiosyncrasies, fieriness and conviviality reflect its creators. Can it be successfully promoted? I watch developments with interest.
ENDS
Reporter Andrew Salmon reviewed Seoul restaurants for a decade and is the co-author of 2002’s Seoul Food Find